A is for Alva, the River Alva

Look downhill from my balcony and you’ll see the U-bend of the River Alva flowing past our house before it curls back around the village. The water froths and tumbles over the rocks beneath the tiny weir, providing a constant soundtrack to life in Moura Morta. I hardly notice it these days but on hot summer nights, when the bedroom window is open, its constant dull roar is quite soothing.

The chameleon qualities of the Alva fascinate me. Its water is usually clear, and appears dark from above, but when the sun’s at the right level, it’s transformed into a patchy silver snake. Occasionally, diamonds of light flash on the surface like fireflies providing a mini light show below the balcony. At other times, the sunlight turns the pebbles into golden coins. After heavy rains, the water turns to a swirling, churning caramel milkshake or a cloudy pea soup.

Down by the ruined mill on misty mornings, I can’t help humming Deep Purple’s Smoke on the Water and conjuring up images from the Heart of Darkness as whorls of steam rise from the dark liquid. On clearer days, the mimosa trees and clumps of reeds are mirrored back from the still, glassy surface. Until Daisy decides to go for a swim, that is.

No matter how hot it gets, I’m not joining her though. I’ve done it once and that’s enough, thank you. The Alva starts way up in the Serra da Estrela and retains that icy feel all year round in Moura Morta. Which is a shame, because it’s a perfect spot for a river beach. It would be quite handy to just stroll down the hill for a dip in the summer; instead we end up driving to other river beaches where the water temperature is bearable.

I might not like the cold water but trout seem to. We’re more likely to see fishermen in waders than bikini-clad bathers as there are several spots along this part of the river that are used for fly fishing competitions.

Where’s your favourite watery place?

This post is the first in the A Personal A-Z of Portugal series. There’s more to come – at least another 25!

Here are some more ‘A is for…’ posts from other bloggers who’ve joined the challenge.

Algarve Blog - A is for the Algarve

The Hand Family in Portugal - A is for Anniversary

RestlessJo - A is for Alte

Sami’s Colourful World – A is for Australia

Fancy joining us? Find out how here.

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About Julie Dawn Fox

I'm a serial expat, originally from the UK and after several years in far-away countries, I moved to Portugal in 2007. I'm very happy living here so I have no plans to move. I love exploring Portugal and am enjoying getting to know this country better through blogging about where I've been and what I've seen.

29 Responses to “A is for Alva, the River Alva”

  1. Mónica says :

    Great pictures Julie XD Congrats!

  2. Fergiemoto says :

    Great idea to do this a-z!

  3. sami says :

    Lovely spot Julie, we lived about 1h south of you – Carregal do Sal, between Coimbra and Viseu. That central area of Portugal has some lovely villages.

  4. Piglet in Portugal says :

    You could always wear a wetsuit :) The pictures look lovely

  5. ferragudofan says :

    what a fantastic photo of the light on the water – no wonder you like living there!
    I couldn’t possibly choose my favourite beach down here in the Algarve – every time I think I’ve found it – we find another one! But Ferragudo still has my heart!
    Great post – lovely descriptions and I am enjoying the new series of posts already!

  6. restlessjo says :

    Certainly looks a lovely spot Julie- how did you pick it? Expect that’s the subject of another blog. Love that “smoke on the water” shot- it’s a stunner.

    And you know where my favourite watery place is, don’t you?
    Looking forward to B.

    • Julie Dawn Fox says :

      I assume that’s Tavira?

      Funnily enough, I didn’t pick the spot. It came with my husband. He’d bought the house the year before we met and although we considered moving a bit closer to Coimbra, there’s a lot to be said for where we live so we decided to stay.

  7. jackietravels says :

    So pretty! I’ve only been in Portugal for about a week (and just in Lisbon…heading down to Faro tomorrow), but it’s been enough time to fall in love with the beautiful coast and to wish I lived by a river full time.

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