S is for Safe, at Last!
A friend recently visited me here in Portugal and when I asked her what she liked about the country, I wasn’t surprised when she said, “I feel safe here.” I do too. I feel free to explore and enjoy and that’s not something I take for granted. Let me give you an example.
When I visit a new place, I like to get lost. Not on my way to the hotel, or anywhere I need to be by a certain time, of course, but if I’ve got a map in my bag for when I’ve done roaming the streets, I prefer to choose my route based on whatever catches my eye at the time.
As a result, I often find myself way off the tourist trail and sometimes in decidedly less salubrious areas. This happened not so long ago when I visited Vila do Conde, a lovely seaside town just north of Porto which is famous for its lace-making and hosts a big national arts and crafts fair every year.
Most of the town is well-maintained and quite pretty but I’d found myself in a residential area where the views were of cheap patterned sheets flapping about in the breeze, coarse insults scratched into someone’s garage door and makeshift outbuildings of red brick and splattered cement.
Granted, I’ve been in far worse places but this was definitely down-at-heel and in other countries I might have felt on edge. Not so in Portugal. It struck me that even in a place like this, I felt safe.
This feeling of personal safety is one of the things that I immediately noticed when I first moved to Portugal from Venezuela; the simple freedom to walk down the street without the very real fear that someone might rob or even kidnap me.
Crime Scene Photo by http://www.flickr.com/photos/michaelmelchiorre/
Don’t get me wrong, it’s not just in Venezuela that I’ve felt restricted by the threat of crime. When I lived in Tanzania, there was always an underlying concern, especially after dark or away from busy streets, which made it prudent not to take risks. In my home country, the UK, the media-hyped danger of rapists and muggers made me wary of going for walks alone or late at night.
So maybe I’m being naive, after all, crime is on the increase in Portugal, especially now that times are tougher financially. Or maybe it’s just the contrast; from having had to be extra vigilant, I now feel I can relax.
I don’t skip around the streets in blissful ignorance; there have been a couple of times when I’ve felt the need to keep a tighter hold of my bag and be more alert in Portuguese cities and I once had an unpleasant encounter while walking in the woods but these instances are few and far between.
This overriding sense of security is something I frequently feel grateful for, particularly when I’m walking the dog in the forests near our village or travelling alone. It’s one of the many reasons I’m happy I moved here.
How safe do you think Portugal is? Let me know what you think in your comments.
This is part of my Personal A to Z of Portugal. If you’ve missed my previous posts, you can find them here.
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H is for Handkerchiefs of Love; a Romantic Portuguese Tradition
It’s almost Valentine’s Day, which seems the perfect time to mention the wonderful embroidered handkerchiefs of northern Portugal. You can find them, or products inspired by them, in most souvenir shops in Portugal but they used to serve a practical purpose in the romantic lives of people from the Minho. Much like a traditional valentine, these handkerchiefs were made to ask “will you be mine?” although they could be sent at any time of the year, not just on Valentine’s Day.
Translation: The axe easily cuts firewood but no axe in the world can cut our friendship.
Once a girl reached marriageable age and had set her sights on a young man, she would embroider a handkerchief of love especially for him. The designs she chose were symbols of romance and their future relationship and she would usually embroider a written message or poem declaring her affections for her intended.
The young woman would know if she had successfully won him over if the man wore her handkerchief in public. By wearing a lovers’ hanky around his neck or in his jacket pocket, especially at major events like parties and fairs, the newly committed man would let remaining single women know he was off the market. If he didn’t, the woman who made the hanky would have to get over him and start looking for a new potential husband.
The tradition of embroidering handkerchiefs with messages of devotion originated in the 17th century among aristocrats but by the 18th century it had been adapted into this courtship ritual and become part of popular culture. The designs became more colourful and although spelling mistakes were rife, the handkerchiefs were bright, cheerful and pretty.
This very detailed hanky has earned the seal of approval from the certifying body
Although the methods of establishing a relationship have changed over the years, the craft of making these beautiful hankies is still alive, especially in northern Portugal. There is even a committee which evaluates handkerchiefs according to a wide range of criteria including the motifs, threads, size, colours and spelling mistakes. If a hanky meets their requirements, they certify it as an approved handicraft.
If you’re lucky enough to be in northern Portugal before the end of February, 2012, around 100 of these precious handkerchiefs are on display in the museum and tourist office in Valença until 29th February. One of the earliest known pieces and many others dating back to the 18th century are on show.
Alternatively, there are usually some excellent examples available to look at, or better still buy, at the annual national handicrafts fair in Vila do Conde, just north of Porto which runs from July to August.
Handkerchief stall at the national handicraft fair, Vila do Conde, Portugal
This post forms part of my Personal A to Z of Portugal.
Previous A to Z posts include:
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Weekly Photo Challenge: Hope
Hope. It’s what this sailor’s wife is clinging on to as she waits by the harbour in Vila do Conde near Porto. She clutches the last letter she got from her husband, not knowing if or when he’ll return.
For other posts inspired by the word ‘Hope’, see the comments at the Weekly Photo Challenge.
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Hi, I'm Julie, a British expat living in central Portugal. I blog about my experiences of living in Portugal and travelling around this diverse and beautiful country. Whether you're thinking about moving to Portugal, looking for some out-of-the-ordinary trips within Portugal or just fancy a spot of armchair travelling, read on and enjoy.
