Amoeiras aqueduct, Elvas

Elvas is one of Portugal’s most underrated historic towns. Close to the Spanish border in eastern Alentejo, this UNESCO World Heritage city is best known for its vast star-shaped fortifications, military history and impressive aqueduct. But what surprised me most when I revisited Elvas recently was how enjoyable it isRead More →

Walking boots, staff, gourd and shell. What to pack for the Portuguese Way of St. James. Camino packing list

I first wrote this packing list after my early Caminos and I’ve updated it several times since. What I pack now is quite different from what I thought I needed back then. After walking the Central, Coastal and Litoral routes, I’ve become much less attached to the idea that youRead More →

Suitcase with Amália on front. Packing Tips for Portugal

I still hate packing. Even after years of travelling in Portugal and living here, it’s one of the parts of trip planning I overthink the most. The good news is that once you understand what Portugal is really like – the cobbled streets, the changing weather, the mix of cityRead More →