Christmas in Portugal is yet another excuse to break out the cakes. While the colourful Bolo Rei (King cake) may be the star of the show, the less glitzy Bolo Rainha (Queen cake) is the Portuguese Christmas cake for me. Especially since I’ve had the privilege of learning a few of its secrets.
The secret to Bolo Rainha
The ingredients and methods for making the dough for Bolo Rainha are the same as for Bolo Rei and can involve a surprising amount of alcohol.
On a behind-the-scenes trip to Pastelaria Capuchinha in Viseu, with Pedro and Franziska from Portugal on a Plate, I learned how the proprietor adapted Chef Silva’s recipe 28 years ago to create her own sought after version.
I am sworn to secrecy but let me just say that the blend of Portuguese spirits, liqueurs and fortified wines is potent and full of flavours that come through in the cooked cake.
Most recipes simply use port wine but there’s nothing to stop you experimenting at home by adding such things as Licor Beirão.
King or queen cake – what’s the difference?
Bolo Rei has a long history and its shape and golden dough represent the gift of gold brought by the Magi as a gift for the Baby Jesus. The sweet, spicy aromas symbolise the frankincense while the bright crystallised fruit on top of the cake are the myrrh.
Not everyone likes the fruit, however, so the Bolo Rainha merely has a hint of candied orange peel and is otherwise stuffed with sultanas, walnuts and hazelnuts with a generous sprinkling of walnuts on top.
How they make the holes
A casual enquiry about the different size of holes in the centre of the cakes led to a hands-on voyage of discovery, for Pedro at least. Apparently, the size of the hole depends on how big your elbows are. And rolling the dough into a ball requires a specific technique. Once you’ve mastered the art of making a ball, use your elbow to make a hole then pull and shape it into a ring. Simple.
Note: The dough used to teach Pedro was not subsequently cooked so no one will be picking jumper fibres from their teeth.
Bolo Rainha – eat it quick
Despite the amount of alcohol, Bolo Rainha doesn’t hold a great deal of moisture and will dry out fairly quickly if you’re not careful. Try to get a freshly-baked one if at all possible and aim to scoff the lot within a day or two.
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What’s your Christmas cake of choice?
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