Muxia village and harbour from Monte Corpiño. End of the Camino de Finisterre and Muxia

If you’ve reached Santiago de Compostela and don’t feel quite ready for your Camino to end, the Camino de Finisterre and Muxía is worth considering.

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This route starts in Santiago and takes you west towards the Galician coast, first to Finisterre, once known as the “End of the World”, and then on to Muxía if you have the extra time.

I walked this route after doing the main Portuguese Camino routes from Porto, including the Variante Espiritual, and I loved it. It felt quieter, more rural and less pressured than the final stretch into Santiago.

This works well if you want a few more walking days, coastal scenery and a gentler ending to your Camino. If you’re mainly drawn to coastal walking but can’t make the Coastal Portuguese Camino work, this could be a good alternative.

If Santiago de Compostela feels like the natural end point for you, or if you’re already physically and mentally ready to stop, don’t feel that you have to do any more.

Quick answers

The Camino de Finisterre starts in Santiago de Compostela and continues west to the coast.

Many people walk from Santiago to Finisterre in 4 or 5 days.

If you continue to Muxía, allow another 2 days.

You can walk Santiago–Finisterre–Muxía or Santiago–Muxía–Finisterre, but I was glad we went to Finisterre first.

You don’t get a compostela for this route, but you can get certificates in Finisterre and Muxía.

There are some long stages, so it’s worth planning accommodation carefully rather than assuming you can stop wherever you like.

If you’re still working out how this route could fit with the Portuguese Camino, my free guide will help you think through route, timing, pace and logistics before you start booking anything:

What is the Camino de Finisterre and Muxía like?

Compared with the Portuguese Camino into Santiago, this route felt quieter and more rural. There are fewer big monuments and historic towns, but there is plenty of countryside, forest, farmland, small villages and eventually the coast.

It’s not an easy little add-on, though. Some stages are long, and accommodation is more limited in places, which is one reason I was glad to have hotels, luggage transfers, route notes and local support arranged for us.

If you’d rather not piece the logistics together yourself, I can connect you with the local tour operator I used.

This was my experience of walking the Santiago–Finisterre–Muxía route in September, using the logistical support mentioned above.

Group of 4 women hikers posing outside Santiago de Compostela Cathedral on the Camino de Finisterre
Leaving Santiago de Compostela Cathedral on the Camino de Finisterre

Stage 1: Santiago de Compostela to Ponte Maceira

Stage summary:

Distance: approx. 17 km / 10.5 miles
Difficulty: Moderate
Highlights: leaving Santiago, woodland paths, last views of the cathedral, Ponte Maceira
Watch out for: the climb after Aguapesada and limited suitable accommodation if you don’t continue to Negreira

After spending a couple of days in Santiago de Compostela, we took our final photos in front of the cathedral and left the city through the Trinity Gate.

It didn’t take long to reach quieter neighbourhoods and then woodland. The first milestone counting down the distance to Finisterre made the whole thing feel real.

We stopped at Sarela de Abaixo for a last glimpse of the cathedral towers before heading back into woodland and small villages.

Woman with scallop shell on backpack taking a photograph of the distant spires of Santiago de Compostela cathedral
Last glimpse of Santiago de Compostela

At one point, we spotted the word ‘Ultreia’ marked out in stones, with a miniature dolmen as reference to the many prehistoric burial sites in this part of Galicia.

Ultreia is a Latin word meaning ‘beyond’ and is used as a greeting among pilgrims, although you’re more likely to hear “Buen Camino!”. While the latter simply means “Have a good Camino”, “Ultreia!” is more like “You Can Do It! or “Keep Going!”.

Ultreia, a traditional Camino de Santiago greeting, spelled out in stones in the ground
Ultreia, a traditional Camino de Santiago greeting

Look out for Fisterra Bovine World in Trasmonte, which has distinctive cow murals on its outbuildings.

Countryside near Trasmonte, a small village surrounded by trees and green fields
Countryside near Trasmonte

Ponte Maceira is a beautiful village on the Tambre River and one of the most attractive places on this route. Its 12th-century bridge uses the supports of an earlier Roman bridge, and the river setting makes it a lovely place to pause.

According to the legend, which is depicted in the local council’s coat of arms, God destroyed the original bridge with a single blow to prevent Roman soldiers stationed in nearby Dugium (now known as Duio, in Finisterra) from pursuing the disciples of St. James.

Ponte Maceira village and bridge
Ponte Maceira village and bridge

Practicalities

There were cafés at decent intervals on this stage, so we had enough chances for comfort breaks and caffeine. O Cruceiro is particularly quirky.

We ended our walking day in Ponte Maceira, although many pilgrims continue to Negreira. The accommodation in Negreira at that time didn’t meet our tour operator’s standards, so we stayed in a nearby country house hotel instead.

Stage 2: Ponte Maceira to Santa Mariña

Stage summary:

Distance: approx. 25 km / 15.5 miles
Difficulty: Challenging because of the distance
Highlights: Ponte Maceira, Negreira, Pazo do Cotón, rural Galicia, forest and farmland
Watch out for: long day, food planning, and the temptation to underestimate the distance

None of us were especially looking forward to a 25 km walking day, but it wasn’t as bad as we feared.

This was our longest stage, although we met people whose tour operator had given them a couple of 33 km days. Not for me, thank you.

We started where we left off, in Ponte Maceira, enjoying the views as we crossed the bridge. A couple of villages and some pretty forest later and we were in Negreira, a small town with all the necessary shops, banks and services.

The main sight in Negreira is the 14th century Pazo do Cotón, the arches of which you’ll walk through on your way out of town.

Walls with turrets and arches. Pazo do Cotón, Negreira
Pazo do Cotón, Negreira

We were quite struck by the poignant sculpture at the far end of Plaza do Cotón. It depicts a local man leaving his family as he emigrates in search of a better life for them all. This was a common occurrence in Galicia, and Portugal.

After Negreira, we started the long but gradual climb through the woods, hamlets and fields to Piaxe then down to Vilaserio.

The local economy is largely driven by agriculture and livestock so you’ll see, and smell, plenty of cows and cornfields in this area, as well as hills and forests. The scenery reminded me a lot of North Wales, where I grew up, except for the cornfields.

3 women walking in the countryside near Santa Mariña, Galicia, Spain
Pilgrims walking in the countryside near Santa Mariña, Galicia, Spain

Practicalities

If 25 km in one day feels too much, build that into your itinerary from the start. There are ways around it, but they need planning.

We stopped in Negreira to buy bread but missed the chance to stop at the albergue café in Piaxe, so the next proper opportunity was in Vilaserio.

We didn’t stay overnight in Santa Mariña. Our tour operator arranged a transfer to a lovely country house hotel instead.

Stage 3: Santa Mariña to Olveiroa

Stage summary:

Distance: approx. 12.5 km / 8 miles
Difficulty: Easy to moderate
Highlights: Monte Aro, views over the reservoir, archaeological references, Olveiroa
Watch out for: detours to archaeological sites may not be clearly marked

The walk from Santa Mariña was fairly easy – the most challenging part being the climb up Monte Aro. The views were well worth the effort though. There are some binoculars near the top of Monte Aro so that you can get a better look at the Fervenza Reservoir and surrounds.

Corn stubble and green fields with trees
Countryside near Bom Xesus on the Camino de Finisterre and Muxía

On the way to Corzón there are lots of information boards about the archaeological finds in this area, such as megalithic dolmens. These stone burial chambers, like the one called Pedras Miudas, date back to the 3rd century BC.

Unfortunately, the signs don’t indicate how far from the Camino you have to walk to find one so I gave up after a couple of hundred metres.

To hikers on the road in pretty countryside near Corzón, Camino de Finisterre and Muxia
Countryside near Corzón, Camino de Finisterre and Muxía

In Ponte Olveira I spotted the first of what turns out to be many mosaics of the Camino Finisterre Muxía. Look out for more in Corcorbión, Cee and Finisterre.

Olveiroa, our base for the night, has a particularly high density of well-preserved stone granaries, a small church of St. James and a few establishments offering food and accommodation for weary pilgrims.

Stone grain stores and cross in Olveiroa village, Galicia
Stone grain stores and cross in Olveiroa

There are also posters with menacing wolves and the word Vákner on them, although I didn’t understand what that was about until the following day.

The Vákner is a mythical werewolf-type creature mentioned by an Armenian archbishop after his Camino de Finisterre and Muxía in the 15th century. You’ll see a dramatic sculpture of it on the next stage.

Practicalities

There were plenty of cafés at intervals along this stage and we got to Olveiroa in time to have a pilgrim menu for lunch.

After a long walking day the day before, I would not have wanted to do what many pilgrims we met were aiming for, which was to walk all the way to Finisterre in one day (approx 35 km!).

Stage 4: Olveiroa to Cee

Stage summary:

Distance: approx. 17.5 km / 11 miles
Difficulty: Moderate, with a steep descent into Cee
Highlights: Xallas River Valley, Vákner sculpture, first sea views, descent towards Cee
Watch out for: no cafés after the route split until Cee, and the descent can be hard on knees

I absolutely loved the majority of this stage, which was fairly easy and very beautiful. I especially enjoyed the gentle climb through the wind farm and then the views above the mist that was still lingering in the Xallas River Valley.

Morning mist in the Xallas River Valley near Olveiroa on the Camino de Finisterre
Morning mist in the Xallas River Valley near Olveiroa on the Camino de Finisterre

About 6 kilometres into the stage, the route splits, depending on whether you want to head towards Finisterre or Muxía.

We were advised that it’s better to go to Muxía last, so we did, although we encountered plenty of pilgrims doing it the other way around. Having walked the hills, I am glad we started with Finisterre.

Women smiling and pointing left at the point where the Camino splits in the directions of Finisterre or Muxia
Finisterre to the left. The Camino splits at Hospital

At the cross and junction in Marco do Couto, we saw the massive Vákner sculpture and had fun posing on the pilgrim bench before continuing.

Vákner. Bronze sculpture of a werewolf-like figure by Cándido Pazo in Marco do Couto
Vákner sculpture by Cándido Pazo in Marco do Couto

After that, we reached a level, open section with views to the ocean – we could just about make out the capes of Corcorbión and Finisterre in the distance.

First glimpse of Cee and the sea. Woman sitting on a rock with hills and sea in the distance
First glimpse of Cee and the sea

After passing the chapels of Our Lady of the Snows and Saint Peter the Martyr, the steep descent towards the town of Cee begins. We had been warned about this so we had a rest before getting stuck into it, and made good use of our hiking poles.

Starting the descent towards Cee on the Camino de Finisterre
Starting the descent towards Cee on the Camino de Finisterre

Cee is a lively town with a beach backed by a park, right in the centre. Disappointingly, the water is not suitable for swimming so we made do with a paddle and a chat with some locals.

Like so many towns and villages in this part of Galicia, Cee was largely destroyed by Napoleon’s French troops in 1809 but there are still some older buildings dotted around and the parish church of Our Lady of Xunquera was built on top of the original 15th century Gothic building.

Fountain in front of Our Lady of Junqueira church, Cee
Our Lady of Junqueira church, Cee

Praza da Constitución is a short avenue of plane trees which had an interesting photography exhibition when I walked through. There’s also a monument to the Camino and its pilgrims in the form of massive walking boots and a staff with the scallop shell.

Practicalities

There are no cafés between the 5.5 km point and Cee so you’ll need to stock up on water and supplies before the route splits in two directions.

Stage 5: Cee to Finisterre

Stage summary:

Distance: approx. 16 km / 10 miles
Difficulty: Moderate
Highlights: Corcubión, Playa de Estorde, views of the Finisterre headland, Langosteira beach, Finisterre lighthouse
Watch out for: descent to Langosteira beach, timing the lighthouse walk if you want sunset

This stage was another highlight for all of us, mostly because of the coast and the time we spent at Langosteira beach.

The route starts by following the coast to the next village, Corcorbión, which has some interesting buildings, including the tourist information office, which was once a prison, and the Neo Gothic church of San Marcos da Cadeira.

Fishing boats in Corcubion harbour with Cee in the background
Corcubion harbour with Cee in the background

After climbing the first hill of the day, we stopped for a coffee at the beautiful Playa de Estorde.

The coastline in this part of Galicia is so beautiful that we made a slight detour from the Camino in Sardiñeiro de Abaixo to follow the walkway beside Playa de Sardiñeiro before continuing on the Camino through a forest.

Once this opens up, you get a spectacular view to the Finisterre headland. It’s quite a steep descent but not too long and then 2 km of beach awaits.

Like many other pilgrims, we chose to abandon the Camino, which runs parallel to Langosteira beach in favour of walking on the sand. We also went for a dip, which was delightful – bring your swim stuff!

Langosteira beach, Finisterre, Costa da Morte, Galicia
Langosteira beach, Finisterre, Costa da Morte, Galicia

After the fun on the beach, it’s a fairly short walk into the centre of Finisterre, where we stopped to get our certificates and visited the Lonxa, the wholesale fish and seafood auction that takes place Monday to Friday from 4:30 pm.

Trays of fish and seafood at the Lonxa fish auction in Finisterre
Fish auction in Finisterre

Sunset was due to happen at around 8:15 so we set off for the lighthouse in plenty of time, making a stop at the beautiful Santa Maria de Aereas church on the way. This 12th century Romanesque church has Gothic elements inside and some wonderful sculptures behind the altar.

Beautifully carved stonework in Santa Maria das Aereas church, Finisterre

We met plenty of other pilgrims on the 3 km stretch to the Santiago Finisterre Camino Kilometre 0 milestone where we had the obligatory photo stop before finding a rock to sit on for the sunset.

Sunset over the ocean at Cape Finisterre, the End of the World and the end of the Camino de Finisterre
Sunset over the ocean at Cape Finisterre, the End of the World and the end of the Camino de Finisterre

Some people end their Camino in Finisterre, although we continued to Muxía. It largely depends on how much time you have but if you can spare 2 extra days to walk to Muxía, it’s worth doing in my opinion.

If you’re unsure whether to finish in Finisterre or continue to Muxía, this is exactly the kind of decision that’s worth thinking through before you book anything.

Practicalities

There are cafés at useful intervals along this stage and it’s not particularly challenging except perhaps the descent to Langosteira beach.

If the weather is good, I highly recommend going for a swim and timing your walk to the lighthouse for sunset.

Stage 6: Finisterre to Lires

Stage summary:

Distance: approx. 13.5 km / 8 miles
Difficulty: Easy to moderate
Highlights: views back across the bay, rural lanes, woodland, Lires village and beach
Watch out for: cows on the path, beach currents at Lires

This was a nice easy day, busy with pilgrims heading in both directions. We started by heading back to Langosteira beach and turned left at the cross to follow the road out of town.

Stone cross in Finisterre before heading towards Muxía
Stone cross in Finisterre before heading towards Muxía

The views across the bay were lovely. After passing the church of San Martiño de Duio, we continued on country lanes towards the next hamlets, one of which has a new café that we hadn’t anticipated but were grateful to spot.

From there, we headed into woodland for a long but steady climb – look out for a cross tucked away in the trees. This is definitely a rural day, with no major sights but lots of beautiful scenery.

At one point, we spotted a field of cows and eventually realised that the man standing near the gate was telling us to get off the path because the cows were about to be driven home for milking. One of our group sheltered behind a Muxía Camino milestone as about 20 cows filed past her!

Man and dogs herding cows down a country lane
Bringing the cows home, near Lires, Camino de Muxía

Lires itself is a small village with several accommodations and eateries.

Lires village on the Camino de Muxia
Lires village on the Camino de Muxía

Once we had freshened up and the rain eased off, we went down to Lires beach for a spot of beachcombing. We also spotted a local man digging in the sand for shellfish.

Currents can be quite strong here so swimming is not recommended. If you do want to go swimming, ask at your accommodation about safer spots.

Lires beach and Nemiña beach, Costa da Morte, Galicia
Lires beach and Nemiña beach

Stage 7: Lires to Muxía

Stage summary:

Distance: approx. 15 km / 9.5 miles
Difficulty: Moderate, with a long gradual climb
Highlights: Castro River, Praia de Lourido, Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Boat, Monte Corpiño, sunset in Muxía
Watch out for: no cafés until Muxía, rough sea conditions, and deciding whether to go straight to the sanctuary or freshen up first

We were sad to be setting off on our last walking day – we’d all had such a great time that none of us wanted it to end.

Shortly after leaving Lires, we crossed the bridge over the Castro River. Until 2010, this crossing was made using the stone blocks that you can still see in the water.

Bridge and old stepping stones across the Castro River, Lires, Costa da Morte
Bridge and old stepping stones across the Castro River, Lires, Costa da Morte

Again, there are no major sights until you reach Muxía but the walk is pleasant and not too taxing, despite being mostly uphill for the first 8 kilometres.

Galician countryside near Facho de Lourido
Galician countryside near Facho de Lourido

Playa de Lourido beach is just before Muxía but we decided against a detour for a swim as the sea looked quite rough.

Praia de Lourido beach, Muxía, Galicia
Praia de Lourido, Muxía, Galicia

Look out for tiny walled vegetable gardens as you get closer to Muxía – I imagine it’s quite challenging growing crops so close to the sea.

Trees as windbreak, growing vegetables by the sea, Muxia
Trees as windbreak, growing vegetables by the sea, Muxía

Muxía itself seems a bit odd when you first enter the streets of low level houses as there doesn’t seem to be any real centre of town. Most activity seems to be near the Marina, and the tourist information centre is not far from here so you can go and collect your extra certificate.

Muxía’s main draw, and the official end of this stage, is at the Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Boat, about 1 km from the marina.

Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Boat, Muxia, Costa da Morte
Sanctuary of Our Lady of the Boat, Muxía, Costa da Morte

According to the legend, the Apostle James was feeling despondent about his mission to convert the local population of sunworshippers to Christianity. He came to the rocky headland to ponder the situation and the Virgin Mary came to him in a stone boat. She told him that he had done his part and that it was time to return to Jerusalem.

The Santuario da Virxe da Barca has some beautiful stained glass windows that allude to this legend, as well as several ships dangling around. There’s a small gift shop in the sacristry and you can get your pilgrim passport stamped there too.

Some of the rocks in front of the 18th century sanctuary are said to be part of the Virgin’s stone boat, namely Pedra de Cadris, which resembles a sail, and Pedra da Abalar. The sail stone is believed to help cure rheumatism while the other, which wobbles a bit, is used to decide whether an accused person is guilty of the offense or not.

Pedra de Cadris at the Sanctuary of the Virgin of the Boat, Muxia
Pedra de Cadris at the Sanctuary of the Virgin of the Boat, Muxía

For me, the real pull was simply sitting on the rocks, watching the waves and letting the fact that we’d reached the end properly sink in.

By the time we were ready to move on, the sun was slipping lower in the sky. We climbed the small hill of Monte Corpiño, which is a cluster of rocks behind the sanctuary that offers 360º views of Muxía and its headland. It’s an idyllic and moving spot to watch the sunset.

Muxia village and harbour from Monte Corpiño. End of the Camino de Finisterre and Muxia
Muxía village and harbour from Monte Corpiño. End of the Camino de Finisterre and Muxía

On the way back to our hotel, we made a detour to see the wooden racks that Pedriña use to dry and cure conger using an age old artisanal method. These, and the Cascóns racks near Santa Maria church, are the only remaining ones in the Iberian Peninsula.

Practicalities

There are no cafés on this stage until you reach Muxía, although there was a toilet and vending machine at around the 3 km point with a tips bowl and another honesty bar a bit further along.

Depending on how much time you have, and whether or not you’re staying overnight in Muxía, you may want to have lunch and freshen up at your accommodation before you walk the final leg to the sanctuary.

Do you get a pilgrim certificate for the Camino de Finisterre?

You don’t get a compostela for walking from Santiago to Finisterre or Muxía because the compostela is for pilgrims who walk at least the final 100 km into Santiago.

You can, however, get a certificate in Finisterre and another in Muxía. They don’t carry quite the same weight as the compostela, but they are a nice way to mark the end of the route.

👉 Find out more about the compostela and how to qualify

My Camino de Finisterre certificate
My Camino de Finisterre certificate
My certificate for walking the Camino de Muxia
My certificate for walking the Camino de Muxia

Thinking about walking the Camino de Finisterre and Muxía?

This route works well if you want a quieter, more rural extension after Santiago and enough time to reach the coast without rushing.

It’s less useful if you’re already exhausted by the time you reach Santiago or only have a couple of spare days.

If you’d like accommodation, luggage transfers and route notes arranged for you, I can connect you with the local operator I used for this Camino.

If you’re still deciding how this could fit with your wider Camino plans, start with my free Portuguese Camino guide: