If you’re trying to decide whether the Central Portuguese Camino from Porto is the right route for you, this guide will help you understand what it’s actually like to walk.
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I’ve walked the Central route from Porto to Santiago de Compostela, as well as the Coastal Camino, Litoral Way and Variante Espiritual. I’ve also helped many other walkers plan their own Caminos, so I’ve seen where people tend to get stuck – route choice, daily distances, hills, rest days and how much support they want along the way.
The Central Portuguese Camino works well if you want the more traditional route, with historic towns, villages, countryside and a stronger pilgrim feel than the quieter Coastal route.
Less so if you’re hoping for sea views or a flatter walk. There are hills, cobbles and some road walking, although there are also plenty of lovely rural sections and towns worth slowing down for.
Quick answers
The Central Portuguese Camino from Porto to Santiago is around 252 km / 157 miles.
Most people allow around 12 walking days from Porto, plus time in Porto and Santiago.
It is more established and generally busier than the Coastal route, especially after Tui and Redondela.
The hardest section for most people is the climb over Labruja after Ponte de Lima.
If you only have around a week, Valença or Tui are common starting points for the final 100+ km into Santiago.
If you’d rather not organise accommodation, luggage transfers and route notes yourself, you can get a Camino itinerary here.
If you’re still not sure which Portuguese Camino route suits you, my free planning guide will help you work through the main decisions before you start booking anything:
You can skip ahead to my stage by stage accounts of the Camino Português or simply continue reading to get an overview of this route before digging into the details.
What will you see on the Central Portuguese Camino?
The Central route gives you a good mix of historic towns, rural villages, farmland, woodland and small cities.
From Porto, the route gradually becomes more rural as you head north through the Minho region towards Barcelos, Ponte de Lima and Valença. These are some of the most rewarding stops in northern Portugal, especially if you’ve allowed enough time to enjoy them rather than just arrive, shower, eat and sleep.
Once you cross into Galicia, the route continues through Tui, O Porriño, Redondela, Pontevedra, Caldas de Reis and Padrón before reaching Santiago de Compostela.
It’s not wilderness walking, and there are some road and urban sections, but there are also plenty of villages, stone bridges, forest paths, vineyards and old pilgrim landmarks along the way.
If you want a route that feels more traditional and connected to towns and Camino history, this is probably the Portuguese Camino I’d look at first.
What’s the terrain like on the Central Camino Português?
Expect a mixture of tarmac roads, country lanes, dirt tracks, stone paths and plenty of granite cobbles.
The cobbles can be surprisingly tiring, especially after several days, so well-cushioned footwear really matters. See my tips for packing for the Camino to learn how else you can care for your feet on a multi-day hike.
There are more hills on the Central Portuguese Camino than on the Coastal route, notably Labruja mountain at 405 metres altitude. The other hills are not usually more than around 150-200 metres but can be taxing at the end of a long day.
When is the best time of year for the Central Way of St. James?
Winters in the north of Spain and Portugal can be quite cold and wet and it’s not uncommon for rural accommodations and some hotels to close during the low-season. Some sections can get flooded or waterlogged in winter months, requiring minor detours.
For these reasons, I wouldn’t recommend doing the Camino between mid-November and February.
How busy is the Camino Português?
Until you get to Redondela, where the Coastal Camino merges with the Central Way, there will be fewer people. After that, expect to see more pilgrims.
The most popular months for the Camino are May and September so it can be tricky to find accommodation on the fly, especially on dates that coincide with major local sporting or religious festivities.
If you are staying in albergues, you’ll find that there is a mad rush in the mornings to get a head start and nab a bed at the next hostel so if you are part of this crowd, you’ll meet plenty of people.
However, if you have the luxury of knowing that your next bed is booked and waiting for you, you can have a more leisurely start to the day and miss the herd. Dori and I found that although we walked in May, the bulk of these hostel pilgrims were already way ahead of us by the time we were on the road at around 9 am.
Central Camino Português Stages Map
As you can see from this map, the Central Portuguese Camino from Porto to Santiago is inland and almost directly northwards, encompassing many important towns and cities as well as small villages in northern Portugal and Galicia in Spain.
The overnight stops on this map are based around the location of hotels, rather than pilgrim hostels, so you can break your Camino up differently if you prefer. But this is the way I did it, as you’ll see below in my description of the stages.
Central Camino Português: Porto to Arcos
Stage summary:
Distance: 17 km / 10.5 miles from Mosteiró, or longer if starting in Porto
Difficulty: Moderate, mainly because of cobbles and hard surfaces
Highlights: Vairão, Ponte D. Zameiro, rural villages, Roman bridges
Watch out for: urban/industrial walking if starting from Porto Cathedral
Although I made a point of visiting Porto Cathedral while in the city, I didn’t actually start walking the Camino until the tour operator had dropped me off in the village of Mosterio, some 17 kilometres northeast of Porto.
I wasn’t being lazy, honest!
Trudging through the urban and industrial sprawl between Porto city centre and Mosteiro doesn’t get your Camino de Santiago off to the best start so skipping ahead is standard practice and makes the first walking day a manageable length.
You can also take the metro from Porto to Vilar do Pinheiro and pick up the trail from there.
From Mosteiro village square, I followed cobbled lanes and tarmac roads through village after village. Fortunately there was little traffic as pavements are also scarce.
The first particularly attractive village I encountered was Vairão with its leafy central square and picnic benches shaded by ancient oak trees. Ever curious, I took the short detour up the ramp to the chapel and was rewarded with views across to the coast.
Vilarinho is more of a small town, although the Camino doesn’t pass through its commercial area. I stopped for a hearty chicken lunch at Restaurante Castelo in the square before moving on, back into rural scenery through a small patch of forest.
The architectural highlights of this day’s walk are the two Roman bridges. The first one, Ponte D. Zameiro, or just plain old Ponte de Ave, is the most impressive. I joined the locals to peer over the sides and watch the ducks basking in the sun on their sand bank on the River Ave.
The other, Ponte de Arcos, lies at the entrance to the hamlet of Arcos where we spent the night. It’s a pretty spot, with a tree on the river bank that looked ideal for sitting under although I didn’t make it back there.
While in Arcos, I highly recommend spending some time hanging out among the locals in Café Barbosa.
👉 Find a place to stay in Arcos
Central Camino Português: Arcos to Barcelos
Stage summary:
Distance: 20 km / 12.5 miles
Difficulty: Moderate
Highlights: São Pedro de Rates, Pedra Furada, medieval bridge into Barcelos, Barcelos old town
Watch out for: route splits in Rates so follow the right signs, limited lunch options if you skip Pedra Furada
A leisurely stroll along cobbled lanes, through farm lands and a patch of forest, took us from Arcos to Rates and the striking Romanesque church of local saint, São Pedro de Rates. While the historical centre of Rates looked attractive, we decided to push on rather than look around.
Important note: The Camino splits into two in Rates so check the signs to make sure you don’t accidentally follow the Coastal Camino (Caminho da Costa).
More forests and country lanes, some of them a tad hair-raising thanks to the lack of pavements, brought us into the village of Pedra Furada.
The perforated stone that this village is named after comes with a legend. Apparently Saint Leocádia was buried alive and managed to escape her premature tomb by drilling a hole through the stone with her head!
The Pedra Furada café-restaurant is an almost obligatory stop for pilgrims. Its walls are covered in Camino paraphernalia and the bolinhos de bacalhau (fried cod cakes) are delicious.
Tip: We made the mistake of hoping to find a restaurant a few kilometres further on to have lunch but ended up having to walk all the way to the outskirts of Barcelos before we found a proper restaurant. I would plan to have lunch in Pedra Furada, where there are several restaurants, unless you’ve managed to rustle up a packed lunch.
After leaving the main road, the back roads led us through hamlets and villages that got grander the closer we got to Barcelos.
Another spectacular medieval bridge took us over the River Cávado, past the wonderful outdoor archaeological museum. Pop in if you have the energy to see the stone cross that depicts the legend of the Barcelos cockerel and how Saint James saved a wrongly-accused pilgrim from death by hanging. Pass the lovely Romanesque church and then you’re in the beautiful historical centre of Barcelos.
Once you’re refreshed, take a stroll around the charming historical centre of Barcelos, filled with surprising folk statues as well as interesting architecture.
Here’s what to see and do in Barcelos.
👉 Find accommodation in Barcelos
Central Camino Português: Barcelos to Balugães
Stage summary:
Distance: 15 km / 9.3 miles
Difficulty: Fairly gentle
Highlights: Minho countryside, vineyards, Tamel, rural scenery, Romanesque chapel in Balugães
Watch out for: staying off-route in Quintiães if Balugães accommodation is unavailable
When leaving Barcelos, the Camino Português takes you past the market square (which is usually in full swing on Thursday mornings) and through the outskirts of modern Barcelos into what I consider to be proper Minho countryside.
In late April, this consists of fields of green speckled with yellow flowers, twisted grape vines just starting to sprout and patches of forest; mainly eucalyptus with some oaks thrown in.
We passed through the village green at Vila Boa and stopped for a coffee opposite the chapel of São Sebastião in Lugar de Ribeira. From here on, the steady climb towards the hilltop parish church in Tamel was green and pleasant. There’s a café/restaurant here as a welcome reward for your efforts.
The usual signs of small-scale agriculture were evident throughout in the form of grain stores, straw and haystacks, tiny fields full of dark green cabbages and the occasional sheep and goat.
Just before reaching Balugães, we crossed an ancient bridge near a teeny ‘river beach’ which I could easily imagine stopping at to bathe my feet on a hot day. It’s close enough to where you’ll probably be staying in the village that you could check in, dump your stuff and go back there to chill out later on.
Note: When Dori and I did the Camino, we spent the night in Quintiães, which added a couple of kms to our day. If at all possible, I suggest you stick to the main Camino and stay in Balugães, which is a pretty village with a few eateries and a cute Romanesque chapel.
Central Camino de Santiago: Balugães to Ponte de Lima
Stage summary:
Distance: 18 km / 11 miles
Difficulty: Moderate, with some climbing
Highlights: countryside, Vitorino dos Piães, views of the Lima Valley, arrival in Ponte de Lima
Watch out for: limited refreshment stops, so bring snacks or a packed lunch
From the quiet village of Balugães, we passed through more verdant countryside and, after the village of Lugar do Corgo, began a fairly steep climb to Vitorino dos Piães. Do make a point of visiting the surprising collection of sarcophagi outside the modern church.
Tip: There is a café about 350 metres off the Camino in Vitorino dos Piães if you need refreshments. Alternatively, bring a packed lunch or wait until you get to Seara (about 12 km into the stage) where there are a couple of bakeries and restaurants.
To make the continued climb a little easier, there is quite a bit of woodland between Vitorino dos Piães and the top of the hill. Once you start heading downhill again on a cobbled road after Quinta da Portela, the views of the Lima Valley and surrounding mountains are glorious.
We walked past colourful fields, apple orchards and, of course, grape vines supported by slabs of granite then a few outlying villages before entering Ponte de Lima alongside the river.
As one of my all-time favourite towns in Portugal, I was more than happy to reach Ponte de Lima. After a quick shower and rest, we waddled to Largo de Camões to enjoy a nice glass of vinho verde with some tremosos (lupin seeds).
See Things to do in Ponte de Lima
👉 Find a place to stay in Ponte de Lima
Central Portuguese Way of St. James: Ponte de Lima to Cossourado
Stage summary:
Distance: 22 km / 13.6 miles
Difficulty: Challenging
Highlights: Ponte de Lima bridge, beautiful countryside, Labruja mountain, views, woodland paths, Rubiães church
Watch out for: the steep Labruja climb and the extra distance beyond Rubiães if staying in Cossourado
This is one of the most memorable stages on the Central Camino, but also one that catches people out.
Leaving Ponte de Lima is actually quite pleasant. You cross the old bridge and within minutes you’re back in the countryside. When I walked this in May, the fields were full of flowers and it felt like a gentle start.
There are more places to stop for food than there used to be, but I’d still plan ahead. There’s a café at the fish farm now and the one in Revolta is still going, but once you start the climb, that’s it until the other side.
The climb up Labruja is the main event. It’s not technical, just steady and, in places, quite steep. Most people end up going slower than they expected here, especially if it’s hot or they’ve already had a few long days.
I remember hearing someone ahead of us celebrating when they reached the top, which was oddly motivating when we were still plodding uphill.
At the top, most people stop for a proper break. No facilities, but it’s a good place for a packed lunch and to catch your breath.
The downhill stretch from Labruja is much easier, with views of distant mountains and several kilometres of woodland paths. At Rubiães, the Camino trail merges once again with the Via XIX Roman road, marked by an image of a chariot and rider.
The 12th century Romanesque church in Rubiães is worth the slight detour to see the stone carvings on the church and engraved Roman milestones in the churchyard.
Many pilgrims spend the night at the albergue in Rubiães but we had accommodation arranged in a country inn, another 4 km away in Cossourado. This meant crossing some more picturesque stone bridges and walking on quiet backroads to reach our peaceful haven.
Pilgrim dinner
One of the highlights of the Camino Português is the camaraderie among the different people you meet along the Camino. That evening, we enjoyed a communal meal with the fellow pilgrims who were also staying at Casa da Capela.
👉 See other options for where to stay in Cossourado
If the Labruja stage has made you wonder how many kilometres per day you should realistically plan for, my free Camino guide will help you think through the main decisions before you start booking anything:
Portuguese Camino de Santiago: Cossourado to Valença
Stage summary:
Distance: 13 km / 8 miles
Difficulty: Relatively easy
Highlights: descent into the Minho Valley, forest near Cerdal, Valença fortress
Watch out for: more pilgrims from Rubiães, muddy stretches in wet weather
Having walked uphill to reach our accommodation in Cossourado, we had very little climbing to do before we began the gentle descent into the Minho Valley the next morning.
The not-so-distant mountains of Galicia accompanied us as we walked through villages and agricultural lands until we joined the Via XIX once more. This leads through a pretty stretch of forest near the village of Cerdal where there is yet another medieval bridge.
This was the first day that Dori and I encountered LOTS of pilgrims. We set off around 9 am and were soon overtaken by the gaggle of walkers who’d started their day in Rubiães and were marching along at a fair old pace in order to secure a bed at the next hostel.
The herd soon thinned out and they were long gone by the time we got to the muddy stretches of puddles that needed to be negotiated just before reaching the tarmac roads at Arão.
Although the Camino quickly leads away from the N13 road, the serenity of the countryside is over as you negotiate one more village before reaching the outskirts of Valença.
The town of Valença itself is reasonably attractive but its main draw is the fortress. It’s worth using the afternoon to explore its ramparts and the pretty squares inside Valença old town.
See this article for more about what to do in Valença.
Tip: If you have the energy, and are interested in visiting Tui Cathedral, you might like to walk or take a cab across the river and enjoy the cathedral’s audio-guided tour at leisure today without waiting until tomorrow when you have the pressure of a full day’s walk ahead of you.
👉 Find accommodation in Valença
Need help organising your Portuguese Camino?
If you’d rather not manage accommodation, luggage transfers and route notes yourself, this is the point where a self-guided Camino package can make things feel much easier.
I can connect you with a local specialist who arranges hotel-based Caminos from Porto, with daily luggage transfers and support if anything goes wrong.
Portuguese Camino de Santiago: Valença to O Porriño
Stage summary:
Distance: 20 km / 12.4 miles
Difficulty: Moderate
Highlights: Valença fortress, crossing into Spain, Tui Cathedral, forest sections, riverside detour into O Porriño
Watch out for: road walking after Tui and the need to take the marked detour to avoid the industrial estate
There’s a reason why Valença and Tui are popular starting points for the Central Portuguese Camino. If you want to qualify for a compostela, you need to walk at least the final 100 km into Santiago. Both towns fall within that range, so they’re a practical option if you don’t have the time or energy for the earlier stages from Porto.
To get to Tui from Valença you will walk through the fortress then cross the impressive road, foot and railway bridge over the River Minho. I loved the border crossing painted onto the footpath.
The International Bridge itself was inspired by Eiffel’s other feats of engineering and symbolises the peaceful relationship that now exists between these neighbouring countries.
Tip: Use the walkway on the right side of the bridge for the most tantalising views of Tui.
The sights of Tui and its fortified cathedral
While Valença built a fortress to protect itself from its enemies, Tui’s medieval stronghold was the cathedral itself. That explains the battlements on its towers and other architectural features that have more to do with military defence than religious devotion.
The Portuguese Camino leads you gently through the outskirts of the town and up through the medieval streets to the front of Tui Cathedral; a most impressive sight. The views alone were worth the small fee, not to mention the exquisite stone sculptures.
The rest of Tui’s historical centre is compact but atmospheric. You’ll walk through some of it simply by following the Camino but you’ll miss its hub unless you venture slightly off the Camino to Passeo da Corredera.
Tui to O Porriño
On the way out of Tui we spotted a magnificent stone cross outside the 11th century church of St. Bartholomew. Once past yet another Roman bridge we had to endure a few kilometres of tarmac highways. I was getting mighty fed up and footsore by the time we finally turned off into the forest.
The greenery and less punishing surface soon cheered me up though. A small cross and shrine marks the spot where San Telmo, the Bishop of Tui, died of a fever on his return from a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela 750 years ago. It’s a beautiful place so we, like many pilgrims before and since, stopped for a rest by the stream.
Dori and I had read about a couple of detours we could take on this stage to keep us amid greenery and, most importantly, avoid the industrial estate outside O Porriño.
Even so, we almost missed the turning! The good news is that it’s now widely accepted as the primary route now, and easier to spot. Thanks to this diversion, we spent the next few hours walking through woods and small villages before approaching O Porriño.
Tip: When you see this mural in front of you, turn left into Orbenlle then take the first track on your left.
The next optional detour into O Porriño itself is not so well-signed. When you get to O Porriño, you can turn left after going under the motorway or right to walk along the main road on the official Camino route.
We picked left, following the river through more woodland right to the centre of town.
O Porriño itself hasn’t got much to look at, apart from the fancy Casa Consistorial in the main street. It does, however, have a range of cafés, restaurants and shops so we had no trouble getting food and drink.
👉 Find a place to stay in O Porriño
Camino Português: O Porriño to Redondela
Stage summary:
Distance: 15 km / 9.3 miles
Difficulty: Moderate, with a climb and steep descent
Highlights: Mos, views of the Ría de Vigo, arrival in Redondela
Watch out for: downhill pressure on knees and toes
The first few kilometres beyond O Porriño were straightforward enough but it wasn’t until we approached Mos that the scenery became especially attractive. A row of low mountains came into view shortly before we reached Mos Palace and the church of Santa Eulália.
Tip: There’s a pretty square here with a couple of cafés; a good place to take a break before the next phase of the steady climb to an altitude of 235 m.
After passing through the village at the top of the hill and a patch of pine forest, the real challenge to our knees began.
The thrill at our initial glimpse of the Ria de Vigo estuary and iconic bridge was quickly eclipsed by the need to zig-zag our way downhill. If your walking shoes are tight around the toes, this is where you’ll feel it most!
Redondela, where two Camino routes become one
The final stretch into Redondela is partly along the main road, until it merges with the Coastal Camino on Rúa Pai Crespo. From this point, there is only one Camino all the way to Santiago de Compostela, barring a few optional detours and alternative routes.
Note: If you have been following the Coastal Camino, you will probably stay overnight in Redondela then walk to Pontevedra the next day, thus combining the Redondela to Arcade section below with the following stage.
If you have been following the Central Camino, you will most likely be continuing on to Arcade to end this stage so aim to have lunch in Redondela before the final leg.
Things to see in Redondela
Redondela is a pleasant enough town, with plenty of restaurants and shops should you need supplies of any kind. In terms of sights, one of the most significant buildings is the 16th century Casa da Torre, which is now the pilgrim hostel and an art gallery.
The ancient church of St. James lies just off the Camino and although I managed to miss it on both of my Caminos through Redondela, you may wish to visit.
👉 Find a place to stay in Redondela
Portuguese Way of Saint James: Redondela to Arcade
Stage summary:
Distance: 7 km / 4.3 miles
Difficulty: Short but can feel tiring if added to the previous stage
Highlights: forest, views of the Ría de Vigo, descent towards Arcade
Watch out for: main road traffic near the end
If you are continuing on from Redondela to stay in Arcade, there is another small hill between you and your hotel. Fortunately this involves some forest and views of the Ria de Vigo lagoon, especially on the way down.
The final stretch into Arcade was less fun – we were exhausted by that point and had to watch out for trucks thundering past us on the main road.
Tip: If you’re tired, and not averse to the idea of skipping a short section of the Camino, I would consider taking a cab from Redondela to Arcade to save your energy.
👉 Find a place to stay in Arcade
Camino Português: Arcade to Pontevedra
Stage summary:
Distance: 13 km / 8 miles
Difficulty: Easy to moderate
Highlights: Arcade waterfront detour, Ponte Sampaio, Verea Vella da Canicouva, riverside route into Pontevedra
Watch out for: no cafés on the riverside detour, and possible flooding/slippery paths in wet weather
If you arrived in Redondela on the Coastal Camino, you would most likely have spent the night there so see my notes above about getting from Redondela to Arcade. Otherwise, this stage from Arcade to Pontevedra is blessedly short and beautiful, especially if you take the detours that we used.
Bonus optional detour: Arcade river beach
Dori and I had been too tired to explore when we arrived in Arcade. However, the next morning, with a relatively short stage ahead of us, we decided to investigate the waterfront by making a slight detour from the Camino. We followed the N550 and then the signs for Porto-Praia.
I’m so glad we did and would thoroughly recommend you do so too, either on the day you arrive or before leaving Arcade, depending on your energy levels.
There’s a small park area and sandy beach with the calm water of the Ria de Vigo stretching out into the distance.
We were going to retrace our steps back to the Camino until two local ladies out for their morning stroll told us we could simply follow the waterline and reach the historical Ponte Sampaio that way. Instead of traipsing through dark narrow streets, we strolled past beautiful views and bobbing boats.
One of my favourite sections on this Camino was the Verea Vella da Canicouva, an ancient stone road that took us gently uphill past small fields and into a forest. Parts of the track has seen so much use over the years that deep grooves have been worn into the stones.
After the hill and forest, the countryside opens up again with rows of grape vines and distant mountains.
Since we had a relatively short distance to cover that day, we decided to take a scenic detour along the River Tomeza, near the tiny chapel of Santa Marta, adding 1 km to our day.
This alternative route takes you through a pretty patch of woodland, surrounded by birdsong, all the way to the outskirts of Pontevedra, avoiding the main road.
Tip: If you take this detour, you won’t encounter any cafés between Arcade and Pontevedra so bring supplies. If you are starting from Arcade, you should get to Pontevedra in time for lunch but if you are coming from Redondela, aim to take a refreshment stop in Arcade and bring a packed lunch.
Note: If the weather is or has been very wet, it’s best to stick to the original Camino because the detour can become flooded or slippery.
What to see in Pontevedra city centre
Pontevedra’s main appeal lies in its countless squares and colonnaded streets, which contain cute shops and eateries.
We enjoyed a wander through the streets soaking up the old world atmosphere and pausing to admire the various architectural treats, including the 14th century Gothic Convent of St. Francis, the ruins of Santo Domingo church and the 18th century Baroque Sanctuary of the Virxen de la Peregrina.
We failed to find anywhere that would serve us Padrón peppers in the evening (not the season, apparently) but consoled ourselves with white Ribeiro wine, slices of empanada (vegetable and seafood pie) and Galician-style octopus.
👉 Find a place to stay in Pontevedra
Camino Portuguese: Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis
Stage summary:
Distance: 22 km / 13.6 miles
Difficulty: Moderate
Highlights: Ponte do Burgo, forest after Pontevedra, vineyards, stone crosses, thermal springs in Caldas de Reis
Watch out for: the route splits for the Variante Espiritual just outside Pontevedra, long stretches without many major towns or monuments
As we left Pontevedra’s pedestrianised centre behind, eerily quiet on a Sunday morning, we found more evidence of Roman occupation with excavations showing traces of the original Ponte do Burgo bridge and a replica milestone.
Note: If you are doing the Spiritual Variant (Variante Espiritual), you will see the junction and signs for this about 2 km outside of Pontevedra. Learn more about this route.
The first particularly attractive part of this full-day Camino stage comes about 4 km after Pontevedra, once you enter the forest. When you emerge into more open countryside, the number of stone crosses will leave you in no doubt that this is an ancient pilgrim path.
We spent most of the day amid crops and small vineyards where the vines are trained up posts so tall that they create vine tunnels.
Despite the occasional stint on the main road, it’s mostly a pleasant walk with no significant towns or monuments, except perhaps for the stone cross and communal laundry tank in the village of Tivo.
Caldas de Reis
The entrance to the spa town of Caldas de Reis is marked by a stone church shortly before the bridge across the River Umia.
The easiest place to experience the thermal waters is Burgas springs, a small public fountain where you can take off your shoes and socks and bathe your weary feet.
Although Dori and I didn’t try it, the Balneario Acuña in Caldas de Reis has a pool and treatments that are open to non-residents as well as hotel guests. I suggest you try to book any treatments in advance though.
There are a few restaurants in town so you should have no trouble finding refreshments – try the local wine served in a ceramic bowl from O Muiño by the bridge.
👉 Find accommodation in Caldas de Reis
Portuguese Camino de Santiago: Caldas de Reis to Padrón
Stage summary:
Distance: 19 km / 11.8 miles
Difficulty: Moderate
Highlights: Bermaña valley, Valga woods, pilgrim motifs, riverside approach to Padrón
Watch out for: elusive waymarkers leaving Caldas and some less attractive village sections
As the end of our epic journey drew ever closer and the numbers on the distance markers got smaller and smaller we felt buoyed up, not to mention proud of ourselves and a little amazed given the concerns we’d had about our bad backs.
The centre of Caldas de Reis is tiny so although the waymarkers seemed elusive, there’s only really one way to go. Once past the church of St. Thomas Becket we headed towards the medieval bridge over the River Bermaña, worth a pause to admire its attractive setting.
After leaving the town behind, we walked through the beautiful green countryside of the Bermaña valley with its meadows and woodland. It was so delightful we barely noticed the gentle climb.
Tip: When you get to the N550 at Carracedo (about 5 km from Caldas) stop at Café Esperon for their excellent tortilla.
Past the 18th century church of Santa Mariña de Carracedo it’s uphill once more and into the shade of the Valga woods.
The first village after the forest is São Miguel de Valga, where pilgrim motifs abound.
A string of hamlets and peaceful rural paths later and we found ourselves in the less than lovely village of Infesta, home to the Romanesque church of San Xulián de Requeixo. I particularly liked the carved cross outside the church and the accompanying information board which explains the iconography.
We crossed another bridge of Roman origin then followed the River Sar until it took us into Padrón via the market square and tree-lined avenue, which is where the Variante Spiritual ends.
Padrón and the legend of Saint James
Padrón is said to be the place where the boat bearing the body of Saint James the Greater from Jerusalem landed.
The stone to which the boat was tied, O Pedrón, gave the town its name and is still protected by the church of St. James that was built around it. If you get the chance to go inside, ask to see the stone when you visit.
Across the bridge you’ll find a sculpture depicting this event at Fuente do Carmen as well as other motifs around the medieval streets and café-filled squares of the historical centre. It’s an attractive town and worth spending some time exploring, or having a rest day before your final stint.
👉 Find a place to stay in Padrón
Portuguese Camino: Padrón to Santiago de Compostela
Stage summary:
Distance: 24 km / 14.9 miles
Difficulty: Challenging because it’s the final long day
Highlights: Galician hamlets, old stone cross near Faramello, Parada dos Francos, first glimpse of Santiago
Watch out for: limited accommodation if splitting the stage, final kilometres into Santiago, route choices near the city
Having looked at the elevation profile for what was to be our final stage, I wasn’t particularly looking forward to the last 24 kilometres that separated us from Santiago de Compostela.
Happily, the route was nowhere near as steep or industrial as I had feared and we spent much of the day in green countryside.
The first few kilometres took us through traditional Galician hamlets where residents were ploughing and planting their potato fields by hand and tall grape vines trailed up posts.
The reward for climbing uphill from Faramello was an enormous tree with a bench beneath, opposite a 14th century stone cross, one of the oldest on the Portuguese Camino.
The pretty village of Parada dos Francos, a little further along, has a small picnic area among the oak trees in the site where St. Martin’s Fair has been held each November since the 16th century.
Note: If you need to split this stage over two days, be aware that there is limited accommodation here. Mention this when you fill in the enquiry form to get your personalised itinerary and quote.
My favourite stretch of woodland came shortly after this village and took the sting out of walking uphill.
Our first glimpse of Santiago de Compostela appeared across the valley as we left the suburb of Milladoiro.
The last few kilometres from that point were undoubtedly the toughest but we obeyed the graffitied sign at Ponte Rio Sar that said “Don’t Stop Now!”
You have a choice to make just after the bridge: stick to the original route and slog up a steep hill or bear right through the trees for a more gentle approach to the city. We went right on what is now the official route into the city.
Update: You will encounter an extra option when you see a pair of waymarkers pointing in opposite directions. The shortest route is to take the second left after this point to cross the motorway.
Arrival in Santiago de Compostela
Waymarkers all but disappeared as we entered the city so keep your eyes peeled. When we finally reached the historical centre and Porta de Faxeiras, the traditional entry to the city from the Portuguese Camino, we knew we had almost made it.
We didn’t go straight into the cathedral. To be honest, I wanted to rest, get cleaned up and feel a little more human first. So we admired it from the outside, took the obligatory photos and headed for the nearest café for a celebratory drink.
As other weary walkers made their way into Obradoiro square, we spotted pilgrims we’d met several times along the Camino. Being able to share that sense of achievement made the arrival feel even better.
Santiago de Compostela Cathedral
Santiago Cathedral is absolutely worth visiting, but don’t assume you can see everything on a whim. If you want to visit the Pórtico da Gloria, book ahead on the cathedral website.
You can also visit the crypt where St. James’ remains are kept and join the queue to see the sculpture of him above the main altar.
If you’re hoping to see the botafumeiro swing, check the cathedral schedule before you go. It doesn’t happen at every pilgrim mass.
Things to do in Santiago de Compostela
I’d strongly recommend staying at least two nights in Santiago if you can. Partly because you’ll be tired, and partly because it’s worth having time to enjoy the city once the pressure of walking is over.
There’s also a practical reason. During busy periods, the Pilgrim’s Office may not issue your compostela certificate on the day you arrive, so you may need to go back the next day.
👉 Read more about things to do in Santiago de Compostela
👉 Find out how to qualify for the compostela
👉 Find accommodation in Santiago de Compostela
Thinking of walking the Portuguese Camino de Santiago?
If you’re still working out timing, rest days or whether to organise everything yourself, you don’t need to have it all figured out before you ask for help.
Some people plan the whole Camino independently. Others prefer to have the accommodation, luggage transfers and local support arranged for them.
This works well if you want a smoother experience without spending hours piecing everything together. Less so if you want to stay completely flexible day by day.
If you’re not ready for that yet, start with my free Camino planning guide:
If you’re asking which one it is, I mean Mosteiró near the Vilar do Pinheiro metro station.
Halo, you mentioned that on your first day from Porto,you had the tour operator drop you off at Mostiero. using google maps, there is a Mostiero about 15km in a straight line from Porto (west north west. and east from Porto there is Mostiero de leca do balio about 6km straight line North.