Walk through channels carved in volcanic rock by rivers of lava.

Madeira island’s dramatic landscape was created by volcanic eruptions around 890,000 years ago. As you explore its peaks, valleys and craters, you’ll see plenty of evidence of this in the form of striated cliffs, undulating folds formed by lava flows, hardened bubbles in the rocks and black sand beaches. You can even go on a journey to the centre of a volcano at São Vicente Volcanic Centre.

São Vicente is surrounded by lush vegetation so if you want to stay awhile, check out these lovely places to stay.

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São Vicente Caves and Volcanic Centre

While there’s plenty to see above ground in Madeira, Mike and I were keen to find out what it’s like inside a real volcano. São Vicente Caves and Volcanic Centre in the north of the island allows you to do just that. Simply join a tour and follow the guide into the darkness of the caves.

Our guide took us along the 1 km main tube formed by lava and geysers all those years ago. Most of the hardened lava flow remains untouched, although some of it has been cleared since the caves were discovered in 1855 to enable pedestrian access. As you walk deeper into the caves, you’ll see different types of lava and the crust that formed on top of slow-moving molten rock.

Occasional drops of water splattered on my head and there were puddles to avoid so you need to watch your step and protect your camera. Thanks to the water, there are even some ferns growing down here, although there are no stalactites or stalagmites. Artificial lakes and levadas (irrigation channels) have been created within the tunnels to control the flow of water and preserve the caves.

Tip: Stay close to the guide if you want to hear the explanations. Although she stopped at places of interest to gather the group, I noticed that the stragglers didn’t catch any of her commentary. I think you’ll have to choose between selfies and information – there’s not enough time for both.

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The tunnel leads into a volcano museum and interpretation centre where you’ll find a model of a volcanic eruption with lights, sound and spitting rocks as well as a ton of information about volcanoes. You don’t get much time in this room, however, before being ushered into another room to watch a film about how the Madeira islands were formed. I found the computer animated film of volcanic activity interesting enough to take the edge off my initial irritation at being rushed out of the museum.

Little did I realise that the highlight of the volcano tour was yet to come.

Film over, we were herded into a dark wooden-clad elevator like wary cattle. As the doors closed, flickering red lights and war zone sound effects kicked in and our ‘cage’ started shaking during our short descent into the ‘Centre of the Earth’. I suspected this would be naff until the doors opened onto a giant glowing globe surrounded by mirrors. Seeing us all reflected into infinity around the sphere made me think of Dante’s Inferno and the kids in the group loved it. So did we!

To my surprise, our journey to the Earth’s centre was not over.

Equipped with 3D glasses, we embarked on a virtual endoscopy into the molten core of the Earth, involuntarily ducking to avoid the boulders hurtling past us and blobs of lava.

Journey to the centre of the Earth, São Vicente Caves, Madeira
Journey to the centre of the Earth, São Vicente Caves, Madeira

These Madeira tours show you some of the amazing features of this volcanic island. Click for details:

Practicalities for visiting the volcanic centre

São Vicente Caves and Volcanic Centre is open from 10:00 to 19:00 every day except 25th December. Adult tickets are 8 euros, children over 5 and seniors pay 6 euros.

You’ll find the caves here, just outside the coastal village of São Vicente. If you’re driving, there’s a free car park opposite the complex or you can take a bus from Funchal that stops in São Vicente and ask the driver to let you out at the caves.

There’s a café onsite but the gardens around the complex are beautiful so we ate our sandwiches while watching the chickens roaming around. There are various restaurants between here and the centre of São Vicente, too.

If you’d rather have someone collect you from your hotel and take you to and around the volcano, take a look at this tour.

Places to stay in or near São Vicente, Madeira

Having made the effort to get to this side of the island, you might like to stay a while to fully appreciate its lush countryside. See this São Vicente travel guide for more ideas of what to see and do in the area. Convinced? Read on to discover the best places accommodations.

Lush vegetation, São Vicente, Madeira
Lush vegetation, São Vicente, Madeira

Choose between guest bedrooms or self-contained apartments at Solar da Bica, a country hideaway with a pool, biological produce, a heated indoor pool and stunning views. You’ll want your own transport if you stay here.

Casa da Piedade is another delightful property, this time with an outdoor pool, surrounded by mountains. It’s a bit closer to São Vicente so if you don’t mind a 20 minute walk, you could manage without a car.

BEFORE YOU GO...

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4 Comments

  1. I fell in love with the Azores in April now I want to go to both Portugal and Madiera. This looks fun and the properties are lovely!

    1. Author

      It was fascinating, if a little rushed in parts and although not quite as lush and unspoilt as the Azores, Madeira is spectacular.

  2. This sounds fascinating! We stopped in Funchal, Madeira on a cruise from Miami to Barcelona earlier this year and it was just enough to convince me that I want to come back to Madeira for several days to learn more and see more of this beautiful island! Anita

    1. Author

      Hi Anita, I spent 10 days there and it wasn’t anywhere near enough! All the more reason to return 🙂

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