Palace hotel, side view, Buçaco

Whether you’re after a fairy-tale palace, war museums, magnificent views, an old convent or a wander through Portugal’s finest collection of national and imported trees, Bussaco is the place to go. Which explains why this 250-acre forest is such a popular weekend picnic spot and worthy tourist destination.

Only 30 km from the pretty city of Coimbra and 3 km from the spa town of Luso, it’s an easy day trip from most places in central Portugal.

Bussaco palace hotel

The Portuguese royal family liked Bussaco forest so much they had a summer palace and hunting lodge built in the centre of the woods. The palace itself wasn’t completed until 1907, leaving the royal family very little time to enjoy it before the monarchy finally came to an end in 1910.

Luckily for wealthy tourists, the king’s chef got permission to turn the elaborate, neo-Manueline embellished building into a posh hotel which continues to provide luxury accommodation over 100 years later.

Even if you’re not staying at the Bussaco Palace Hotel, you can go inside for a nosy around the ground floor to take a peek at the azulejos and period furniture and decor.

Or for 35 or 40 Euros (not including drinks) you could treat yourself to lunch under the arches of the terrace restaurant overlooking the sculpted shrubbery and flowers of the well-tended gardens.

If the hotel’s restaurant is out of your price range, it’s best to come prepared with a picnic and find a shady spot at one of the many picnic tables dotted around the forest. There is also a café next to the information centre for snacks and refreshments.

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Monastic forestry

Long before tourism brought people to Buçaco, an order of barefoot Carmelite monks took over the management of the forest from the Benedictine monks in 1628. They promptly built a wall around it, constructed a monastery and set about conserving and propagating the flora.

While this work was going on, two papal decrees were issued; women were banned from the forest so the monks would not be distracted and anyone daring to cut down a tree was to be excommunicated.

These measures, and the dedication of the monks, paid off and Buçaco is now Portugal’s most diverse forest. It’s home to over 400 native species of plants and 300 varieties brought home by Portuguese explorers from such far flung places as Mexico, Japan and Africa.

Carmelite convent in Bussaco

Although the Portuguese government took over the forest in 1834 when they abolished the monasteries, there are still plenty of monastic relics to experience.

Much of the original convent was destroyed to make room for the palace but there’s still enough left to warrant the nominal entrance fee. Namely stone floors, cork-lined doors, ceilings and walls, 16th century blue and yellow tiled altars with painted flower displays and enormous religious paintings on the walls.

Not to mention the small chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Milk, which hosts a painting of the Virgin Mary offering her breast to the baby Jesus by the renowned Portuguese artist, Josefa d’Obidos.

Below this important work of art by Portugal’s first female artist lies a collection of wax breasts and photographs of people left by the faithful hoping for divine intervention.

Our Lady of Milk by Josefa d'Óbidos
Our Lady of Milk by Josefa d’Óbidos

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Military history and the Battle of Buçaco

As well as the azulejos painted with scenes from the Battle of Buçaco in 1810, one of the monks’ cells has been set aside for battle memorabilia.

Napoleon’s troops were defeated here, marking the turning point in his attempted invasion of Portugal.  The Duke of Wellington slept in the convent at night during the conflict.

For those who want more military history, there’s a small museum just outside the ‘Portas da Rainha / Queen’s Gates’ and a memorial obelisk nearby with views of the Serra da Estrela mountains.

Walks through Buçaco forest

Otherwise, after admiring the striking patterns made by the monks in black, white and orange pebbles that cover the convent walls, why not go for a walk? There are plenty of routes to choose from and they are fairly well signposted but we found it impossible to follow any of the coloured trails marked on the map from the tourist information centre!

To discover more religious artifacts, head away from the convent along the Via Sacra (Way of the Cross) and discover the series of chapels that house life-sized terracotta figures representing Christ’s journey to the cross at Calvary.

If you’re feeling really fit, you can follow this path up to its conclusion, the enormous ‘Cruz Alta / High Cross’ that stands at an altitude of 551 metres. Those with less energy and a car can take the easy option and drive to the summit. Either way, the panoramic view across Coimbra to Aveiro makes it well worth the climb; on a clear day, you can see the Atlantic Ocean.

If you’re after a more gentle stroll, the Vale dos Fetos (Fern Valley) provides a magical experience shaded by giant ferns from New Zealand with trickling streams that lead to a lake. Wander around it to discover grottos and poems.

Alternatively, follow the water of the Fonte Fria (Cold Spring) as it makes its way down 144 steps to the lake, making sure you find a less grueling way through the forest back up the hill. 

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The spa town of Luso

Just a few kilometres down the hill from Bussaco is the small village of Luso, which is a bit like a mini Sintra. Its waters are famed throughout Portugal and you’ll find queues of people waiting to fill up their water bottles from the São João fountain.

The water here has curative properties and, coupled with an attractive setting, it became a spa resort, hence the somewhat surprising number of accommodations in the village. The main spa, Termas de Luso, is still in operation, with a menu of treatments that ranges from multi-day packages to half day beauty and relaxation therapies.

Where to stay near Bussaco or Luso

Sadly, the Palace Hotel bedrooms are in need of renovation so I would hesitate to stay overnight.

A better option would be the modernised 4-star Art Deco Grande Hotel de Luso, which has a tunnel connecting it to the Termas de Luso spa facilities and a large outdoor pool. Check availability and prices

If you fancy something smaller, more traditional and secluded, check out Vila Duparchy, a cosy guesthouse that dates back to the 19th century which also has an outdoor pool. See photos and reviews

See other accommodations in Luso

Practicalities for visiting Bussaco National Forest

Getting to Bussaco:  It’s about a 30 minute drive from Coimbra. Alternatively, you can take the train to Luso and walk or a cab from there to the forest gates.

I’ve included a morning in this delightful spot in two of my fully managed Portugal itineraries.

Go Walks Portugal offer a 1 Day Bussaco Enchanted Forests and Palaces Tour from Coimbra or other hotels in the area. Get a 5% discount by using this code when you book: JULIE5

You can also visit as part of a small group day tour from Porto that also includes time in Coimbra.

If you’re in a group of 10 or more, contact the forest foundation to arrange a guided tour. The foundation organises a range of activities and events, although mostly in Portuguese, such as night walks, children’s adventures and Sundays in the Valley of Ferns. Check the website or contact them for more details.

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Reasons to visit Bussaco Palace and forest
Reasons to visit Bussaco Palace and forest

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12 Comments

  1. shit I thought the wax boobies shrine was my little secret place

    1. LOL, not any more, I’m afraid

  2. Thanks for your prompt reply! I had one other question… Do the buses to Conimbriga depart from the same station from which the busses to Bussaco leave? I studied archaeology so I definitely do not want to miss out on Conimbriga! Your articles are making me re-think my roundtrip ticket 🙂

    1. Author

      Hi Erica, I don’t think they do. I think the Conimbriga bus goes from Largo do Portagem in the city centre but the Buçaco bus, although it may stop in other places in Coimbra, will more than likely leave from the Terminal Rodoviária on Av. Fernão Magalhães.

  3. It seems as though the only way to get there is by bus from Coimbra. Can you enter from Luso? How much is the bus ticket? Is it worth staying in Bussaco for the night, or would you recommend just a day trip? I am interested in seeing all of the forest and palace. Also, is there any place to rent bikes, and can you ride through the forest? So glad I found your blog, by the way!

    1. Author

      Hi Erica,
      Thanks for your comments and questions. There used to be a train to Luso but I can’t see it on the CP website so I think you’re stuck with the bus or hiring a car. I don’t know how much the ticket would be but I guess around 4 euros each way. You’ll need to check the timetable to make sure you don’t get stranded: http://www.transdev.pt/ Not sure about bike hire – I’d ask the Forest Foundation (link in blog post) – however, unless you like cycling uphill, I wouldn’t bother. It’s much nicer to walk. A day should be plenty to see the forest and the convent. The palace is now a hotel so unless you’re staying there, you won’t get to see much of it. One option would be to have lunch there – it’s expensive but worth it.

  4. Lovely article Julie! May I perhaps ask you for your advise? I am a Belgian scoutsleader and I am looking for a 5 day hiking tour in the neighbourhood of Coimbra. Do you think it would be possible to use the forest for this? Or is it way too small and should we just use it as a beautiful starting point and continue, for example, towards the seaside. (Or do you perhaps have a better idea from your experience?)

    Thanks a lot in advance!

    1. Author

      Hi Jan, I think Buçaco forest itself is too small for a 5-day hike but it is definitely worth including if you can work out a suitable route. Another option would be to consider the Serra da Lousã area and its schist villages https://juliedawnfox.com/2014/02/03/schist-village-central-portugal/ – take a look at the Aldeias do Xisto website for more information and contact details of tour operators. http://www.aldeiasdoxisto.pt/ You could perhaps do a 5-day hike using the villages as overnight bases.

  5. Thanks for the interesting article, it was very helpful for my tour planing!

    1. I’m glad you found it useful. Thank you for taking the time to tell me – I hope you have a great trip!

  6. Sounds like my kind of place, Julie. One to go in the notebook for when I make it to Coimbra. Enjoy your midnight walk.

    1. Author

      Thanks, Jo. It looks as though I’ll have to wait until September though. Apparently they were booked up for the August walk two weeks ago!

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