The Serra d’Arga in northern Portugal gets few visitors, least of all foreign ones. Which is a shame, because these mountains are really rather beautiful and easy to get to if you’re staying in the western Minho area. Venture into them and you’ll find traditional villages, rural agricultural practices, wild horses andRead More →
Slightly sweet and moist with a crunchy crust. That’s the way I like my broa, aka traditional Portuguese corn bread. Broa is often served in the basket of bread you get served with olives in restaurants. Portuguese corn bread is more dense and filling than ordinary bread but, when freshly baked, is ohRead More →
There’s a little slice of heaven on the west coast of Portugal that blends bucolic countryside with a magnificent coastline, all of which I discovered on a coastal walk along the Rota Vicentina from Odeceixe beach. The village itself is about 3 kilometres inland and has a relaxed, non-beachy charm all of its own. TheRead More →
It was the oxblood red pool that brought me to Mina de São Domingos in Portugal’s Alentejo region. The village’s disused mining pit is now filled with water. Stained from the surrounding iron ore and made acidic by the sulphur, it’s fascinating but not for swimming in. If you fancy a dip, there’s aRead More →
Getting to the tiny Serra Amarela mountain village of Ermida is an adventure in itself. A single track road twists steeply up the mountainside, affording occasional gut-lurching glimpses of a rocky river bed in the canyon below. I decided to play it safe and pull over into a lay-by to admireRead More →
How do you revitalise a sleepy historical village that’s off the beaten track? Paulo and Carmen Romão from Casas do Côro have made a huge difference to Marialva by buying up several traditional granite cottages and renovating them to form a luxury rural retreat. They haven’t taken over the entireRead More →
Jangling cowbells give her a little warning but not enough time for the pretty young girl to escape the mischievous embrace of one of the masked Caretos de Podence. With one colourful woolly arm around her shoulders, he bats her hair with the tip of his long hood and bumps his bell-cladRead More →
After reading about Sortelha’s “great charms” in a guide book, I was keen to see if it would live up to the hype. It does. So much, in fact, that of the Historical Villages of Portugal I’ve visited so far, Sortelha and Monsanto are my favourites. I’ve already told you what’sRead More →
A weekend of mushroom fun and festivities in Alcaide, Portugal.Read More →
