double rainbow over Moura Morta

Out in the sticks? You can say that again. But apart from the long drive to work and the lack of nightlife, that’s one of the good things about living in the tiny village of Moura Morta in central Portugal. Once you’ve made it here, it’s like being on holiday all year round.

The very first time I came here, I was bewitched by the scenery from the moment I turned off the main road and saw the mauve peaks of the Serra do Açor looming in the distance. With one foot squeezing the brake, I negotiated the steep wiggly road down to the village, snatching occasional glimpses of the village through the eucalyptus and mimosa trees. But it was the view from the house that won me over and made me want to live here.

View from the balcony

I’ve lost count of the number of times that, sitting on the balcony watching the river Alva below and the forested hills beyond that Mike and I have said, or even just thought to ourselves, “It’s like being on holiday!” And now that we’ve torn down the old shed and made the garden bigger, prettier and more comfortable, there are even more reasons and places to feel pleased about living in rural Portugal.

In fact, when I’ve got a full fridge and no outside commitments, I don’t leave the house for days on end, other than to walk the dog. And that’s something else I love. I open the front door, check there’s no one around then let the dog shoot out, like a greyhound after a rabbit, around the corner and down the track into the forest.

She soon comes back to make sure that I’m following her and we then have a selection of routes available to us depending on the weather, time, inclination and presence of other people such as fishermen or farmers. Whichever path we take, there are views of the village straddling a ridge among the hills, and of the river Alva, which is where we usually end up.

Moura Morta

One of my favourite spots is directly below the village, where there’s a small concrete bridge, a ruined mill and a small weir. The bank has been cleared and someone has thoughtfully balanced a slab of rock onto some smaller ones, creating a seat. Sitting there in the warmth of the early morning sun or the welcome afternoon shade of the mimosas is the perfect way to appreciate the colours, shapes and sounds of nature and village life.

These colours, shapes and sounds are constantly changing what with new flowers coming into bloom, small fields in various stages of crop production and building work going on. Nothing stays the same, making it fascinating to observe the changes, however small they are.

An old friend who came to visit predicted that I would quickly tire of living so far away from ‘civilisation’. Happily, she was mistaken.


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  1. Hello Julie. I found your IG account and sent you a message re Moura. Hope I can chat with you soon. Thanks.

  2. Hi Julie, can you recommend a good estate agent or a nice area to live that is an hour or so from Lisbon please.

    1. Hi Anthony, there are too many places that may or may not suit you within an hour of Lisbon, depending on what you need from the location You really need to narrow down your criteria before I can give you any useful suggestions.

  3. How much would be a 2/3 bedroom house/apartment there. I’m retired, and live on $820.00 USD monthly

  4. Hi Julie – Julie here! I’m thinking on moving to the centre of Portugal – I’ll be visiting in the coming weeks to check out some property. I’m looking for the small holding open space experience! …My only niggle … is the threat of wild fires ! Lst year was of course horrendous – is this even a real concern on a day to day basis?

    1. Yes, it is. A lot more is being done to make people more aware of the risks and preventative measures they need to take but you cannot and should not dismiss the threat. Consider the proximity of eucalyptus or pine forests and other poorly maintained land and forests to your own as well as the state of access roads and your water supply.

  5. Hi! I know this is totally random but can you help? My son is in moura morta with friends atm and is trying to get to porto tomorrow . We are struggling to find public transport do you happen to know what his best bet would be love? Thank you!

    1. There are at least 3 Moura Mortas in Portugal but if he’s in the one near Vila Nova de Poiares, he’ll need to get to Coimbra to catch a train or bus to Porto. Try the Transdev website for bus timetables between Vila Nova de Poiares and Coimbra. I don’t know if there is a bus that passes closer to the village of Moura Morta – perhaps Ponte da Mucela? If not, he’ll need a lift or taxi to Vila Nova de Poiares.

Over to you. Please share your thoughts in a comment.