Crashing, freezing waves not really your thing? Fed up of salty skin and sand that finds its way into everything? Looking for a cheaper way to cool off in summer? Portugal’s river beaches could be the perfect solution.
Here’s a quick run down on why they beat the seaside hands down:
You can actually swim in the rivers
With calm waters and no nasty undercurrents or danger of anyone accidentally drifting or being swept out to sea, river beaches are safer and easier for both splashing around and serious swimming. And, while the water can still be on the chilly side, it’s definitely warmer than the Atlantic Ocean.
Most river beaches also have a lifeguard on duty and a first aid point during the official opening period, just in case.
River water is clean
The only things likely to be floating around in Portuguese river beaches are leaves, unlike the detritus that rides the waves of busy coastal beaches. You might get the odd dragonfly or damselfly hovering around to add to the natural beauty while you swim.
Look for the Blue Flag (Banda Azul), which denotes quality tested water.
River beaches offer varied settings
No two river beaches are the same. Some, like the one in Goís, import sand to create an island in the middle of the river. Others, such as Bogueira in Casal de Ermio, and Canaveias build wooden walkways to ease your way across the river to the on site café and bathroom facilities.
Some of the best river beaches Portugal has to offer are in the Centro region but there are some in every region.
The Wild Guide Portugal by Edwina Pitcher is a good source of wild swimming spots and other off the beaten track locales.
There are more activities and options
Most river beaches have some kind of rope swing set up in an overhanging tree. Some even have proper jumping platforms and ladders. As well as water that’s deep enough for diving and swimming, there are usually places where you can position yourself to let the cool water gently trickle over your legs or sit and let your feet dangle in the river.
For the little ones, you should find some kind of children’s play area if not a paddling pool.
If you’re feeling more energetic, at Casal de Ermio and Praia de Palheiros do Zorro near Coimbra, as well as many other river beaches, you can hire a kayak or canoe or do a spot of fishing. There’s usually a grassy area for sunbathing or knocking a football around, although the two don’t necessarily mix well.
Walkers will find footpaths leading to castles, convents and schist villages at Lousã.
Reasonably-priced cafés are a common feature at these riverside areas. Some river beaches, like the Blue Flag beach at Vimieiro near Penacova, have the added bonus of a restaurant.
If you want to bring your own food, you’ll usually find picnic tables and possibly outdoor barbecues but if you’re really keen to cook your own meat, it’s best to check the facilities beforehand and respect the restrictions during periods of elevated risk of forest fires.
Free shade at river beaches
At some river beaches, for example Cascalheira, you can sling a hammock up between trees and gently sway the day away in dappled shade. Even without a hammock, those who don’t fancy baking in the sun can easily find respite under a tree.
It’s not necessary to fork out for a beach hut or bring your own brolly although it is possible to hire shades and sunbeds at some places, such as Piscinas da Fraga near Vila Nova de Poiares.
No beach tat
It’s rare to rind tacky souvenirs, beach towels, inflatable dolphins or football shirts for sale so the only financial demands your kids are likely to make on you are begging for an ice cream.
So, if you fancy a stress-free day at the beach where you can relax and enjoy the water free from annoyances, check out what Portugal’s river beaches have to offer.
Note: Portuguese river beaches are great, but seasonal. Some are only fully operational in July and August while others run from June to September.
However, if you have your heart set on spending time by the ocean, check out my guide to the best beaches in Portugal.
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Hi Julie, I am staying in Armamar which I understand is near the Doures. Are there any river beaches we could take our 6 year old to?
Use this map to find river beaches nearby https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1CHBF_pt-PTPT778PT778&q=praia+fluvial+armamar&npsic=0&rflfq=1&rlha=0&rllag=40976316,-7760033,15643&tbm=lcl&ved=2ahUKEwjLitj5l7fjAhUJFRQKHaBXBycQtgN6BAgKEAQ&tbs=lrf:!2m1!1e2!2m1!1e3!2m1!1e16!3sIAE,lf:1,lf_ui:2&rldoc=1#rlfi=hd:;si:;mv:!1m2!1d41.29903091649126!2d-7.4414350099252715!2m2!1d40.98567104232757!2d-8.198118359534647!4m2!1d41.14253814139133!2d-7.819776684729959!5i11
Thanks for your wonderfully informative posts.
I’m housesitting for a couple of weeks in Bajouca de Baixo at the moment, near Monte Redondo.
Do you know of any lovely river beaches near me? I’d be keen on any ‘insider’ hints around the area….
Hi Julie, I´m moving to Vila Nova de Poiares this spring and I take it the river beacher are close by and accessable from there? Where would the closest one be? Also, does a lot of tourist stay in VN de Poiares? Thanks! Great blog!
The closest river beach to Poiares would be Fragas da Pena. Casal de Ermio is not far. Hardly any tourists go to VN Poiares.
I know you wrote this a while ago, but I wondered if you knew of any good river beaches near Fafe (or could point me in the direction of a good site to search)?
Many thanks for the advice..
Hello!! Any recommendations for river beaches near Pinhao? I have a five year old. Thanks!!
I think this is the closest: https://www.google.pt/maps/place/Praia+Fluvial+do+Passadouroemail@example.com,-7.5388576,17z/data=!4m12!1m6!3m5!1s0xd3b4462bf6902d5:0xd068a71520523a0f!2sPraia+Fluvial+do+Passadouro!8m2!3d41.2359226!4d-7.5366689!3m4!1s0xd3b4462bf6902d5:0xd068a71520523a0f!8m2!3d41.2359226!4d-7.5366689?hl=en
There are picnic benches and I think basic toilet facilities but no café or other infrastructures that I’m aware of.
From the photos, it looks as though there may be a kiosk café in July and August. Not 100% about the bathroom situation though.
We are very excited to visit in August. Do you have recommendations for places to stay around Coimbra or Lousa or anywhere central/northern Portugal? We have two children ages 9 and 11 and love outdoors, swimming, hiking, etc. Looking for an authentic Portugal experience after spending a week in Algarve. Thanks so much!
Hi Brenda, you could use Coimbra as a base for day trips: https://juliedawnfox.com/day-trips-from-coimbra-thatll-make-you-want-to-stay-longer-in-central-portugal/ There are some accommodation suggestions in that article as well as this one: https://juliedawnfox.com/coimbra-hotels/
If you’d rather be closer to Lousã, there are several options
This looks like a good family option: https://www.booking.com/hotel/pt/quintal-de-alem-do-ribeiro-turismo-rural-lda.en-gb.html?aid=360419;sid=e2b5874d941dbd9c23e43d1f5c31d709;age=11;age=9;dest_id=-2168225;dest_type=city;dist=0;group_adults=2;group_children=2;hpos=4;nflt=review_score%3D80;no_rooms=1;req_adults=2;req_age=11;req_age=9;req_children=2;room1=A%2CA%2C9%2C11;sb_price_type=total;srfid=20af0ec9aaf6dccd24af9cffdad9aa7a756d4d98X4;type=total;ucfs=1&#RD3998001
Hi this is wonderful! We find ourselves unexpectedly near Fungao with four children. Could you point us in the direction of a river beach near us? It would make our day!
I haven’t been but there is apparently a river beach in Janeiro de Cima http://www.igogo.pt/praia-fluvial-de-janeiro-de-cima/
Love this Julie! Do you know where we would find the river beach nearest to Porto?
I think it’s Praia da Lomba near Gondomar http://aquapolis.com.pt/praia-fluvial-da-lomba-gondomar-areal-do-rio-douro/
thinking of renting a house to retire in gois anybody know this area I am looking for peace and quiet in my retirement all answers would appreciated dave
Sent you an email 🙂
Dave has now retired to. Colemeal just outside of Gois. If you want to visit Gois avoid the third week in August everything is booked for a festival.
Peter friend of Dave
You’ve sold me!