Ilha do Picoto river beach, Avo, Portugal

Why river beaches in central Portugal are better than the seaside

Crashing, freezing waves not really your thing? Fed up of salty skin and sand that finds its way into everything? Looking for a cheaper way to cool off this summer? Central Portugal’s network of river beaches could be the perfect solution. Here’s a quick run down on why they beat the seaside hands down:

You can actually swim in them
With calm waters and no nasty undercurrents or danger of anyone accidentally drifting or being swept out to sea, they are safer and easier for both splashing around and serious swimming. And they’re definitely warmer than the Atlantic Ocean. Most river beaches also have a lifeguard on duty and a first aid point during peak periods, just in case.

Cleaner water
The only things likely to be floating around in river beaches are leaves, unlike the detritus that rides the waves of coastal beaches. You might get the odd dragonfly or damselfly hovering around to add to the natural beauty though.

More variety
No two river beaches are the same. Some, like the one in Goís import sand to create an island in the middle of the river. Others, such as Bogueira in Casal de Ermio, and Canaveias build wooden walkways to ease your way across the river to the on site café and bathroom facilities.

More to do
Most river beaches have some kind of rope swing set up in an overhanging tree. Some even have proper jumping platforms and ladders. As well as water that’s deep enough for diving and swimming, there are usually places where you can position yourself to let the cool water gently trickle over your legs or sit and let your feet dangle in the river.

If you’re feeling more energetic, at Casal de Ermio and Praia de Palheiros do Zorro near Coimbra, you can hire a kayak or canoe or do a spot of fishing. There’s usually a grassy area for sunbathing or knocking a football around, although the two don’t necessarily mix well. Walkers will find footpaths leading to castles, convents and schist villages at Lousã.

For the little ones, you should find some kind of children’s play area if not a paddling pool.

Cheap Eats

Reasonably priced cafés are a common feature at these riverside areas. If you want to bring your own food, you’ll usually find picnic tables and possibly outdoor barbecues but if you’re really keen to cook your own meat, it’s best to check the facilities beforehand.

Free shade
At some river beaches, for example Cascalheira, you can sling a hammock up between trees and gently sway the day away in dappled shade. Even without a hammock, those who don’t fancy baking in the sun can easily find respite under a tree, without having to fork out for a beach hut or bring your own brolly although it is possible to hire shades and sunbeds at some places, such as Praia de Palheiros do Zorro near Coimbra.

No beach tat
There are no tacky souvenirs, beach towels, inflatable dolphins or football shirts for sale so the only financial demands your kids are likely to make on you are begging for an ice cream.

So, if you fancy an altogether easier day at the beach where you can relax and enjoy the water free from annoyances, check out what the Central Portugal region’s river beaches have to offer.


Julie003(2) street6

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  1. Hi Julie
    Thanks for your wonderfully informative posts.
    I’m housesitting for a couple of weeks in Bajouca de Baixo at the moment, near Monte Redondo.
    Do you know of any lovely river beaches near me? I’d be keen on any ‘insider’ hints around the area….

  2. Hi Julie, I´m moving to Vila Nova de Poiares this spring and I take it the river beacher are close by and accessable from there? Where would the closest one be? Also, does a lot of tourist stay in VN de Poiares? Thanks! Great blog!

    1. The closest river beach to Poiares would be Fragas da Pena. Casal de Ermio is not far. Hardly any tourists go to VN Poiares.

  3. Hello Julie

    I know you wrote this a while ago, but I wondered if you knew of any good river beaches near Fafe (or could point me in the direction of a good site to search)?

    Many thanks for the advice..


  4. Hello!! Any recommendations for river beaches near Pinhao? I have a five year old. Thanks!!

      1. From the photos, it looks as though there may be a kiosk café in July and August. Not 100% about the bathroom situation though.

  5. We are very excited to visit in August. Do you have recommendations for places to stay around Coimbra or Lousa or anywhere central/northern Portugal? We have two children ages 9 and 11 and love outdoors, swimming, hiking, etc. Looking for an authentic Portugal experience after spending a week in Algarve. Thanks so much!

  6. Hi this is wonderful! We find ourselves unexpectedly near Fungao with four children. Could you point us in the direction of a river beach near us? It would make our day!

  7. thinking of renting a house to retire in gois anybody know this area I am looking for peace and quiet in my retirement all answers would appreciated dave

    1. Author

      Sent you an email 🙂

    2. Dave has now retired to. Colemeal just outside of Gois. If you want to visit Gois avoid the third week in August everything is booked for a festival.

      Peter friend of Dave

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