Aveiro city with canals and boats.

Aveiro is often visited as a day trip, but staying overnight gives you a very different experience. Once the day-trippers leave, the city feels much calmer and easier to enjoy. If you’re deciding whether to stay, or where to base yourself if you do, this should help. Whenever Mike andRead More →

Coimbra and Mondego River from Santa Clara bridge

Trying to decide where to stay in Coimbra? This city is compact enough to explore on foot, but where you base yourself still makes a noticeable difference. Some areas are much easier if you’re arriving by train or bus and planning to walk everywhere. Others make more sense if youRead More →

Fishing and foraging at Foz do Arelho lagoon

Portugal’s Silver Coast stretches roughly between Lisbon and Porto and includes historic towns such as Óbidos, Alcobaça and Nazaré as well as quieter beach resorts and nature reserves.  As a beautiful, green, agriculturally rich area of Central Portugal with gorgeous beaches, ancient and interesting towns and villages and activities rangingRead More →

Detail of tomb of Inês wearing crown, Alcobaça. Photo © Carolyn Miller

The heartbreaking tale of Pedro and Inês, Portugal’s famously ill-fated lovers inspired me to visit Alcobaça, a pretty town in the Silver Coast of Central Portugal. The theme of love is a strong part of Alcobaça’s identity and you’ll see it reflected throughout the town, which is also known forRead More →

Caldas da Rainha streets

There are several cute towns and villages in Central Portugal that have become known for something very specific, like their medieval style streets, an important monument or an old castle. Caldas da Rainha, however, has flourished mostly because of its history as a spa town and its hyperrealistic ceramics, whetherRead More →

slabs of chocolate

If the thought of a whole festival dedicated to chocolate appeals to you, here’s my advice for getting the most out of annual chocolate festival in Óbidos. UPDATE: The Chocolate Festival for 2024 runs from 1st to 17th March. Check here for more information. 1. There’s plenty to enjoy without buying aRead More →