Coimbra and Mondego River from Santa Clara bridge

I’ve mentioned before why Coimbra makes a great base for exploring central Portugal. Whether you spend one night in this charming riverside city or several, this post should help you decide where to stay in Coimbra. I’ve chosen Coimbra hotels and apartments that I consider to be stylish, well-located and good valueRead More →

Pool with a view, RinoTerra Minho, Caminha, Portugal

It’s all too easy to fall for Caminha, which is how the Rinoterra Minho retreat came about. A brief visit to see friends was enough to convince Ilya, the owner, and his wife to relocate from Russia to the top corner of northwest Portugal. Appreciating how special the Minho region is, he decided to find a wayRead More →

Herdade dos Grous and lake

It really wasn’t hard to fall in love with Herdade dos Grous, a country estate spread over 730 hectares of Alentejo countryside. For nature lovers who appreciate comfort, good food and fine wine, it’s hard to beat and I’m glad I accepted the invitation to stay there. I would happily put my handRead More →

Pool, Casas do Côro, Marialva

How do you revitalise a sleepy historical village that’s off the beaten track? Paulo and Carmen Romão from Casas do Côro have made a huge difference to Marialva by buying up several traditional granite cottages and renovating them to form a luxury rural retreat. They haven’t taken over the entireRead More →

Casa da Sé Hotel, Viseu

Actually, it’s both. Antique dealers Agostino and Julieta Matos have renovated the 18th century building above their antique shop and transformed it into a boutique hotel with a difference. Not only is each room unique but you can buy its furniture and ornaments. If the carved wooden shelf or the inlaid bedsideRead More →

Entrance, Quinta da Agra

Sometimes, I find places to stay in Portugal that have me beaming with joy. Quinta da Agra, a 17th century farmhouse just outside Ponte de Lima is one of them. It took a little bit of finding, thanks to the unhelpful woman in the tourist information office and the teeny signRead More →

Facade, Rio Arade Manor House hotel, Algarve

The weight of responsibility suddenly feels heavier as I follow the last of my driving directions, “Take the second exit from the roundabout. Destination is on the left.” I’m now driving along a slightly run down street which seems to me the last place you’d expect to find a manorRead More →